Adipic Acid
Benefit:   Buffering and neutralizing.
Source:   Beets.

Alcohol (Ethyl Alcohol, Ethanol)
Benefit:   Antiseptic.
Source:   Manufactured by the fermentation of starch, sugar, and other carbohydrates.

Algae (Rhodophycea) Extract
Benefit:   Substance used to normalize the skin’s moisture content and provide suppleness and firmness to the epidermis. There are many other benefits depending upon the type of algae or seaweed used.
Source:   Algae.

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids
Benefit:   Increase skins cell turn over rate, helping to remove undesirable signs of skin aging, such as discoloration, roughness, and wrinkling. AHA’s exfoliate revealing fresher-looking skin.
Source:   Citric Acid, Fruit Acids and Sugar Cane extract are used as AHA’s.

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera, Aloe Peryi)
Benefits:   Softening, used to counteract wrinkles.
Source:   Compound expressed from the leaf of the aloe plant.
Know as the first aid plant, there are more than 300 species. It has been used medicinally for more than 3000 years.

Alkali           
A substance is regarded as an alkali if it gives hydroxyl ions in solution. An alkaline aqueous solution is one with a pH greater than 7.

Allantoin (Symphytum Officinalis L)
Benefits:   Healing and soothing. Anti-irritant stimulates new tissue growth, Appropriate for sensitive, irritated, and acne skins.
Source:   Botanical extract found in the comfrey root, non-allergenic.

Amino Acids
Benefits:   Helps moisturizers and emollients penetrate the skin.
The body’s building blocks, from which proteins are constructed.
Source:   Fruit, plants and their roots.

Ammonium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
Benefits:   Foaming action.
Source:   Coconut alcohol.

Arnica (Arnica Montana) Extract
Benefits:   Credited with a wide variety of properties including antiseptic, astringent, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, anticoagulant, circulation-stimulating, healing. May help with promoting new tissue growth. Great for acne conditions. Used externally to treat bruises and sprains.
Source:   Flowering herb.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
Benefits:   Antioxidant, preservative.
Source:   Plants and fruits (proprietary).

Ascorbyl Palmate
Benefit:   Antioxidant, preservative.
Source:   A salt of ascorbic acid (see), derived from plants and fruits.

Ascorbyl Stearate (See Ascorbyl Palmate)

Asparagus Root (Asparagus Officinalis) Extract
Benefit:   Tonic.
Source:   Asparagus Root.

Avocado (Persea Gratissima) Oil
Benefit:   Emollient and carrier. Bactericidal and soothing. Has sunscreening characteristics. Helps to stabilize oil in water. Has the highest penetration rate among similar oils. Other constituents include palmitic and palmitoleic acids, lecithin, phytosterol, carotinoids, and a high concentration of vitamins A, D, and E.
Source:   Avocado.

Benzoic Acid
Benefit:   Preservative.
Source:   Cherry bark, raspberries, tea, anise, and cassia bark.

Bisabolol
Benefit:   Anti-inflammatory and soothing.
Source:   Chamomile and/or yarrow.

Bladderwrack (Fucus Vesiculosus L) Extract
Benefit:   Anti-Inflammatory.
Source:   Seaweed.

Borage (Borago Officinalis) Seed Oil
Benefit:   Hydrating and anti-irritant. Widely used as an emollient and sometimes as a “tea” for sore eyes. Contains potassium and calcium.
Source:   Borage seed.

Butyl Alcohol
Benefit:   Clarifying ingredient.
Source:   Assorted grains.

Butylparaben
Benefit:   Antifungal preservative.
Source:   Ester of Butyl Alcohol, and p-hydroxybenzoic acid (Benzoic Acid).

Benzoic Acid
Preservative that occurs in nature in cherry bark, raspberries, tea, anise, and cassia bark.

Butyl Alcohol
Clarifying ingredient, derived from assorted grains.

Butylene Glycol
Benefit:   Humectant, preservative.
Source:   Assorted grains.

Calendula (Calendula Officinalis) Extract (Marigold)
Benefit:   An emollient said to have healing, wound healing, soothing, antiseptic, anti-itching, anti-inflammatory properties. Used for oily, delicate, skin as well as for acne.
Source:   Calendula blossom (Marigold).

Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides
Benefit:   Emollient.
Source:   Coconut.

Ceramides
Benefit:   Repair the corneum layer of the skin, improve skin hydration, and increases feeling of softness. Protective particularly for elderly skin and sun damaged skin.
Source:   Obtained from plants.

Cetearyl Alcohol
Benefit:   Emulsifier.
Source:   Coconut and other fruits.

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Benefit:   Emulsifier.
Source:   Coconut oil.

Cetearyl Glucoside
Benefit:   Emulsifier, cleanser.
Source:   Cetearyl Alcohol (coconut & other fruits) and Glucose (fruits).

Cetyl Alcohol
Benefit:   Emollient, emulsion and stabilizer.
Source:   Coconut and fruits.

Chealating Ingredient
Any compound that removes trace metals.

Citric Acid
Benefit:   Astringent, antioxidant, preservative.
Source:   Fermented crude sugars of citrus fruits (see Alpha-Hydroxy Acids).

Citric Acid Phenoxyethanol
Benefit:   Topical antiseptic.
Source:   Citrus fruits.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Benefit:   Cleanser, foam booster, thickener.
Source:   Coconut.

Coconut (Cocos Nuciferea) Oil
Benefit:   Cleanser.
Source:   Coconut.

Corn Gluten Amino Acids
Benefit:   Emulsifier.
Source:   Wheat flour.

Cucumber (Cucumis Sativus) Extract
Benefit:   Moisture binding, moisture regulating, soothing, tightening, anti-itching, anti-inflammatory, refreshing, softening, and healing properties.
Source:   Fruit portion of cucumber.

Cyclomethicone
Benefit:   Silky, smooth emollient.
Source:   Silica (see silica).

Decyl Oleate
Benefit:   Emollient, penetrating properties, facilitates spreadability and provides a good feel on the skin. A component of sebum of human skin.
Source:   Olive oil.

Deionized Water (Aqua)

Diazolidinyl Urea (Oxymethurea)
Benefit:   Preservative, antiseptic and deodorizer.
Source:   Vegetable amino acid.

Dimethicone
Benefit:   Lubricant, protect against moisture loss.
Source:   Silicone, silica (see silica).

Essential Oil Blend
Benefit:   A large number of oils have antiseptic, germicidal, and preservative action.
Source:   The oily liquid obtained from plants through a variety of processes. The essential oil usually has the taste and smell of the original plant.

Essential Oil Infusion
Benefit:   A large number of oils have antiseptic, germicidal, and preservative action.
Source:   The oily liquid obtained from plants through a variety of processes. The essential oil usually has the taste and smell of the original plant.

Ester
A compound formed from an alcohol and an acid by elimination of water. A Natural Forming Compound (NFC).

Ethylparaben
Benefit:   Preservative
Source:   Ester, or a Natural Forming Compound (NFC), derived from plants (proprietary).

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Benefit:   Provides UVB protection & UVA absorption, emollient.
Source:   Isosteric acid (mixture of fatty acids), derived from plants and bark (proprietary).

Evening Primerose (Oenothera Biennis) Oil
Benefit:   Astringent and helpful for skin irritations. Hydrating. A tonic for inflammatory conditions. Recommended for infantile eczema, and arthritis.
Source:   Leaves, oil and seeds of evening primerose.

Eyebright (Euphraside) Extract
Benefit:   Astringent, anti-inflammatory, and tonic properties. Used in eyecare preparations to decrease and counteract eye area inflammation.
Source:   Prepared from the plant after it has been cut above the root.

Ginko Biloba Extract
Benefit:   Antioxidant properties, aids in production of collagen and elastin. Anti-inflammatory, stimulates tissue oxygen consumption. Beneficial anti-aging ingredient.
Source:   Ginko biloba tree, sacred to the Chinese.

Ginseng (Panax) Extract
Benefit:   Diminishing wrinkles and help dry skin. Increase skin elasticity, skin rejuvenating, oxygenating, and stimulating. Active components are called ginsenosides which are said to be responsible for the revitalization and reactivation of epidermal cells. Also has vitamin B as a constituent.
Source:   Ginseng root.

Goldenseal (Hydrastis Canadensis) Extract
Benefit:   Anti-inflammatory. Antiseptic and antibiotic properties. Used for skin disorders and eczema.
Source:   Botanical.

Glucose
Benefit:   Sooths skin.
Source:   Grape and corn sugars.

Gluten
Benefit:   Binder.
Source:   Proteins from wheat flour.

Glycerin(e) (Glycerol)
Benefit:   A humectant, emollient, and moisturizer.
Source:   Vegetable oil and water.

Glyceryl Stearate
Benefit:   Emulsifier, humectant, and skin conditioning agent.
Source:   Palm kernel or soy oil.

Glycine Soja
Benefit:   Thickener and emollient.
Source:   Soybean flour and oil.

Grape (Vitis Vinifera) Seed Extract
Benefit:   Soothing and antibacterial properties. Antioxidant, great in anti-aging, after sun products. Contain vitamin C, chlorophyll, and enzymes.
Source:   Grape seeds.

Green Tea (Camellia Sinensis) Extract
Benefit:   Antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and stimulant. Clinical studies demonstrated an ability to prevent or postpone the onset of such illnesses as cancer and heart disease. Often incorporated into anti-aging formulations. When applied topically, it can reduce skin swelling. Ability to extend the SPF in sunscreen. Other constituents of green tea include caffeine and phenolic acids.
Source:   Green tea plant and dried leaves.

Hamamelis Virginiana Extract (Witch Hazel Extract)
Benefits:   Inti-inflammatory, softening, and emollient. Effective against free radicals. Apparently counters the effects of UVA by its anti-free radical activity while acting as a UVA and UVB absorber.
Source:   Leaves and bark of the plant.

Hazelnut (Corylus Americana) Oil
Benefits:   Greaseless emollient, carrier oil having nourishing properties.
Source:   Hazelnuts.

Heptanoic Acid
Benefit:   Produce esters, humectant, moisture retention.
Source:   Grapes.

Hibiscus (Sadariffa) Extract
Benefit:   Moisturizing and refreshing. Provides tightening effect without stripping the skin of natural oils. Astringent and tonifying properties.
Source:   Hibiscus.

Hyaluronic Acid
Source:   Fruit sugars (proprietary).

Hydrolyzed
Turned partly into water. Occurs as a chemical process in which the decomposition of a compound is brought about by water, resolving into a simpler compound.

Hydrolized Glycosaminoglycans
Benefits:   Increases hydration and elasticity and pliability of the skin. Humectant, moisturizing and firming properties.
Source:   Hydrolized sugar acids.

Hydrolyzed Soy (Soja) Lecithin (Phospholipids)
Benefits:   Antioxidant, emulsifier and spreading agent.
Source:   Soybeans, found in all living organisms.

Hydrolyzed Oat (Avena Sativa) Protein
Benefits:   Lubricating, emollient, anti-itching, skin protectant with a soothing effect on sensitive skin.
Source:   Oats protein.

Hydroxylate
Process in which an atom of hydrogen and an atom of oxygen are introduced into a compound to make the compound more soluble.

Isobutylparaben
Benefit:   Preservative.
Source:   NFC, derived from botanicals (proprietary).

Isopropylparaben
Benefit:   Preservative.
Source:   NFC, derived from botanicals (proprietary).

Lauryl Polyglucose
Benefit:   Viscocity agent.
Source:   Plant and fruit acids (proprietary).

Lauroyl Ethylenediamine Triacetic Acid
Benefit:   Surfactent.
Source:   Combination of roots and esters (see esters).

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil
Benefit:   Antiallergenic, anti-inflammatory, anticeptic, antibacterial, antispasmodic, balancing, energizing, soothing, healing, stimulating, insect repellent properties. Great for skin problems, normalizes any skin type, stimulates cellular growth and regeneration. Known to help to relieve stress.
Source:   Botanical.

Lecithin
Benefit:   Antioxidant and emollient.
Source:   Soybeans (found in all living organisms).

Licorice (Glycyrrhiza Glabra) Extract
Benefit:   Anti-irritant. Studies indicate an ability to absorb UV rays. A depigmenting agent.
Source:   Licorice root and stem.

Linoleate
Benefit:   Emollient.

Linoleic Acid (Vitamin F)
Benefit:   Emulsifier, prevents dryness and roughness.
Source:   Found in plant oils including soybean and sunflower oil.

Macadamia Nut (Ternifolia) Oil
Benefit:   Carrier and emollient with excellent spreadibility, lubrication and penetration properties. Moisturizing, leaving smooth, non-greasy after feel. Gentle to the skin. Softening and nourishing. Good for mature skin. Naturally contains tocopherols (vitamin E).
Source:   Macadamia nuts.

Methylparaben (Methyl P-Hydroxybenzoate)
Benefit:   Preservative.
Source:   (NFC) Ester of alcohol and hydroxyl benzoic acid, derived from fruits and vegetables.

Methylcellose
Benefit:   Gel binder.
Source:   Natural gum, botanically derived.

Myristyl Alcohol
Benefit:   Emollient, gives a smooth velvety feel. Necessary for normal growth and healthy skin.
Source:   Cascarilla bark.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B)
Benefit:   Skin stimulant.
Source:   Botanical sources.

Oak (Quercus Infectoria) Root Extract
Benefit:   Astringent.
Source:   Oak Root.

Oat (Avena Sativa) Kernel Protein
Benefit:   Humectant (moisture binding).
Source:   Oat kernel.

Oat (Avena Sativa) Protein
Benefit:   Soothing, beneficial for irritated skin, psoriasis, or allergic dermatitis, delicate, sensitive skin. Cleanser, and oil absorbing. Enhance emulsion stability, increase viscosity, leave a smooth after-feel, and provide a source of whole natural vegetable protein.
Source:   Oats.

Octyl Palmitate
Benefit:   Emollient.
Source:   Palm kernels.

Oleic Acid
Benefit:   Improves the skin penetration abilities of a preparation’s components.
Source:   Vegetable fats and oils.

Oleyl Betaine
Benefit:   Emollient, conditioning surfactant, and thickener.
Source:   Vegetable fats and oils.

Olive (Olea Europaea) Fruit Extract
Benefit:   Penetrating oil, antioxidant properties.
Source:   Olive fruit.

Olive (Olea Europaea) Leaf Extract
Benefit:   Astringent, antiseptic, antioxidant, vasodilatant. Used in anti-aging products.
Source:   Olive leaf.

Orange (Citrus Aurantium Dulcis) Oil
Benefit:   Anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, suitable for sensitive and delicate skin.
Source:   Orange peel.

Oxynex K
Benefit:   Preservative and stabilizer.
Source:   Combination of many vitamins derived from plant sources and Peg-8 (derived from combination of grains).

p-hydroxybenzoic acid
Source:   Fruits or vegetables.

Palmitic Acid
Benefit:   Texturizer.
Source:   Allspice, anise, cascarilla bark, celery seed, coffee, tea, palm oil and/or other plant oils.

Palmitate
Benefit:   Texturizer and used as an oil.
Source:   Botanical (proprietary).

Panthenol  (Vitamin B5)
Benefit:   Penetrating moisturizer, conditioner, stimulates cellular proliferation and aids in tissue repair. Provides protection against sunburn, enhances natural tanning process.
Source:   Vitamin B from plants.

Peg 7 Glyceryl Cocoate
Benefit:   Self emulsifying emollient.
Source:   Coconut.

Peg-8
Benefit:   Emulsifier, binder and conditioner.
Source:   Combination of grains.

Phenoxyethanol
Benefit:   Preservative and stabilizer.
Source:   Combination of many vitamins derived from plant sources (rose ether) and Peg-8 (combination of grains).

Polysorbate 20
Benefit:   Emulsifier, stabilizer and surfactant.
Source:   Coconut.

Polysorbate 60
Benefit:   Emulsifier, wetting agent, stabilizer of essential oils in water.
Source:   Condensate of sorbitol (found in ripe berries, cherries, plums) and oleic acid (obtained from vegetable fats and oils) or Stearic acid (from vegetable fats). Simply stated, plants and fruits.

Polysorbate 80
Benefit:   Emulsifier.
Source:   Condensate of sorbitol (found in ripe berries, cherries, plums, pears, apples, seaweed, and algae) and oleic acid (obtained from vegetable fats and oils). Simply stated, plants and fruits.

Potassium Sorbate (Sorbic Acid Potassium Salt)
Benefit:   Preservative.
Source:   Berries.

PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate
Benefit:   Emulsifier.
Source:   Myristyl alcohol (see myristyl alochol) and adipic acid (see adipic acid).      

Propylene Glycol Stearate
Benefit:   Lubricant, emulsifier, and stabilizing ingredient for essential oils.
Source:   NFC, derived from amino acids and proteins.

Propylparaben (Propyl P-Hydroxybenzoate)
Benefit:   Preservative.
Source:   NFC derived from esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid (fruits or vegetables).

Quillaja Saponaria Extract (Soap Bark)
Benefit:   Cleanser.
Source:     Bark of a South American tree.

Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A palmitate)
Benefit:   Skin conditioner. Reduces fine lines and wrinkles, and prevent skin roughness resulting from UV exposure.
Source:   Vitamin A and botanical oils.

Riboflavin B2 Coenzyme (Vitamin B2. Lactoflavin. Formerly called vitamin G)
Benefit:   Necessary for healthy skin and respiration, protects the eyes from sensitivity to light, used for building and maintaining body tissues.
Source:   Botanical.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) Extract
Benefit:   Antiseptic properties, beneficial for acne, dermatitis, and eczema.
Source:   Rosemary flowers.

Rosehip (Rosa Canina) (Fruit) Oil
Benefit:   Healing, antiseptic, hydrating. Rich in vitamin C.
Source:   Fruit of wild roses.

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Benefit:   Healing and protecting. Protects against infection, boosts immuno-defenses.
Source:   Living yeast.

Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorius) Oil
Benefit:   Softening and hydrating.
Source:   Safflower seed.

Sage (Leaf)(Salvia Officinalis) Extract
Benefit:   Astringent, antibacterial, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, stimulating, softening, invigorating, and healing properties.
Source:   Sage leaves.

Sarsaparilla (Smilax Aristolochiae Folia) Extract
Benefit:   Healing, antiseptic, and beneficial for skin disease, including psoriasis.
Source:   Sarsaparilla root.

Seaweed (Fucus Serratus) Extract
Benefit:   Stimulating, moisturizing, revitalizing, anti-inflammatory, disinfectant, and nourishing. Potential tissue renewal action and positive effects on wrinkles because of silicon content. Protects against irritation. Effective in treating acne based upon antibiotic properties. May accelerate wound and sunburn healing. Improves blood circulation in the skin. Components include vitamins A, B1, B2, B3, B5, B12, C, D, E, and K. Mineral constituents include iodine, calcium, iron, phosphorus, sodium, potassium, zinc, and copper. The amino acid content is extremely high compared to other plants.
Source:   Seaweed.

Sequestering Ingredient
A preservative that prevents physical and chemical changes.

Silica
Benefit:   Granules may be used for exfoliation or scrubbing purposes. Naturally drying agent.
Source:   Occurs abundantly in nature and is 12% of all rocks. Sand is silica.

Silicone
Benefits:   Protecting, softening, lubricant.
Source:   Silica.

Sodium Carbomer
Benefit:   Thickening agent.
Source:   Organic salt.

Sodium Carbonate (Soda Ash)
Benefit:   Absorbs water from the air.
Source:   Lake brines or seawater.

Sodium Hyaluronate
Benefit:   Moisturizing agent, emulsifier, lubricant, anti-aging.
Source:   Fruit sugars (proprietary).

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Benefit:   Foaming qualities.
Source:   Caffeine.

Sodium Oleth Sulfate
Benefit:   Binder, softener, resists oxidation.
Source:   Vegetable oils.

Sodium PCA
Benefit:   Humectant, enhance hydration, recommended for dry, delicate and sensitive skin.
Non-comedgenic and non-allergenic.
Source:   Amino Acids (see) derived from herbal extracts.

Sorbitol
Benefit:   Humectant. Gives a velvety feel to skin.
Source:   Ripe berries, cherries, plums.

Sorbitan
Made from sorbitol

Sorbitan Stearate
Benefit:   Emulsifier.
Source:   Derived from Stearic Acid (found in Cascarilla Bark) and Sorbitol (found in a ripe berries, cherries, plums, pears, apples, seaweed, and algae).

Sorbitan Oleate
Benefit:   Emulsifier.
Source:   Vegetables (proprietary).

Soy Lecithin (Glycine Soja) Phospholipids
Benefit:   Texturizer.
Source:   Amino Acid derived from the soy plant.

St. John’s Wort (Herba Hypericis) Extract
Benefit:   Astringent, anti-inflammatory, and soothing properties. Skin protection especially for sensitive skin and areas with burns. Used to treat arthritic pain.
Source:   St. John’s Wort plant

Stearic Acid
Benefit:   Emulsifier, thickening agent and lubricant, ads pearliness to creams.
Source:   Vegetable fats, cascarilla bark.

Squalane
Benefit:   Moisturizer and lubricant.
Source:   Plant oils.

Stearyl Alcohol
Benefit:   Lubricant.
Source:   Vegetable oil.

Stearyl Heptanoate
Benefit:   Emulsifier.
Source:   The ester of stearyl alcohol (see) and heptanoic acid (see). Used as a wax in skin emollients.

Sunflower (Helianthus Annus) Seed Oil
Benefit:   Carrier oil. Smoothing properties and non-comedogenic. Contains vitamin E, lecithin, carotenoids and waxes. Used in many anti-aging products.
Source:   Sunflower Seeds.

Sweet Almond (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis) Oil
Benefit:   Emollient with soothing properties.
Source:   Almonds.

Tetrasodium EDTA (Sodium Edetate)
Benefit:   Sequestering and chealating ingredient (see sequestering and chealating).
Source:   Powdered sodium salt.

Thyme (Thymus Vulgaris) Extract
Benefit:   Antiseptic, tonic, antibacterial, deodorizing, fungicidal, and circulation stimulating.
Source:   Thyme.

Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
Benefit:   Antioxidant.
Source:   Vegetable oils.

Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E)
Benefit:   Antioxidant.
Source:   Vegetable oils.

Tocopherol Linoleate (Vitamin E)
Benefit:   Preservative, antioxidant and a skin conditioning agent
Source:   Vegetable oils.

Urea (Carbamide)
Benefit:   Antiseptic.
Source:   Vegetable amino acids.

Vitamin E Acetate (Tocopherol)
Benefit:   Anti-oxidant, free radical fighter.
Source:   Vegetable oils.

Vitamin E Succinate (Tocopherol)
Benefit:   Antioxidant.
Source:   Distillation of edible vegetable oils.

Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
Benefit:   Antioxidant.
Source:   Vegetable oils.

Wasabi (Wasabi Japonica) Root Extract
Benefits:   Anti-irritant and anti-aging.
Source:   Wasabi Root.

White Oak Bark (Quercus Alba)
Benefit:   Astringent.
Source:   White Oak.

Xanthan Gum
Benefit:   Thickener, emulsifier, and stabilizer.
Source:   Corn sugar gum.

Yeast Extract
Benefit:   Revitalize the skin with moisture, fight dryness. Restore soft elastic and healthy skin. Reduces facial lines.
Source:   Botanical.

Information sources:
“Milady’s Skin Care Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary” by Natalia Michalun.
“A Consumers Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients” by Ruth Winter, M.S.
Independent research with multiple skin care manufacturers.